Vintage Clothing Size Guide: Why Vintage Sizes Are Different

One of the slightly confusing things about buying vintage is finding your size.

You might normally buy a UK 12, find a vintage dress labelled a 12 and discover that it fits more like an 8. Or find something labelled a 10 that fits perfectly.

It can be confusing, but it isn't necessarily because the garment has been labelled incorrectly.

Clothing sizes have changed.

A vintage size doesn't always correspond to the size you would buy today, which is why we don't rely on the label alone when describing our pieces.

Vintage sizes aren't modern sizes

Modern clothing sizes are based on sizing systems that have changed considerably over time.

As bodies, manufacturing and sizing standards have changed, so have the numbers attached to clothing. A dress labelled UK 14 from several decades ago may have been made for a very different set of measurements from a modern UK 14. The number on the label is therefore pretty much void in today's terms.

It means that a beautiful dress isn't going to fit better because the label says the “right” number.

Measurements are much more useful

When shopping for vintage online, measurements are your best friend.

Rather than concentrating on the label size, compare the garment's actual measurements with something you already own that fits you well.

For example, you could measure:

• bust
• waist
• hips
• shoulder width
• sleeve length
• total length

Depending on the garment, other measurements can be useful too.

For trousers and skirts, the waist, hips, rise and inside leg can all make a difference. For jackets and coats, shoulder width and sleeve length are particularly useful.

A tape measure will tell you considerably more than the number on the label.

How to measure yourself

If you're buying something online and don't know which size to choose, take your own measurements first.

Measure around the fullest part of your bust, the narrowest part of your natural waist and the fullest part of your hips.

Don't pull the tape too tightly.

It's also worth measuring yourself in the kind of clothing you'd normally wear underneath the garment. A fitted dress and an oversized coat aren't going to need the same amount of room.

Keep your measurements somewhere handy so you don't have to start from scratch every time you fall in love with something online.

Measure a garment you already love

This is one of the easiest ways to shop vintage online.

Find something in your wardrobe that fits you exactly how you like it.

Lay it flat and measure the relevant areas. Then compare those measurements with the vintage garment you're considering.

This can be particularly helpful when you're unsure about how a particular style is supposed to fit.

For example, if you love an oversized jacket, you might be looking for considerably more room through the shoulders and body than you would in a fitted one.

Measurements give you a much better idea of what you're actually getting.

Don't get too attached to the number

We think this is worth saying.

A vintage garment being labelled a size 8, 10, 12 or 16 doesn't tell you whether it will look good on you.

And if something fits beautifully, does it really matter what the label says?

Older sizing can be particularly unhelpful when it comes to vintage, so we'd much rather think about measurements, proportions and fit than a number.

The right piece is the one that feels good when you put it on.

Fit can also be part of the fun

Vintage clothing often has slightly different proportions from modern clothing.

Waists can be higher. Sleeves can be longer. Shoulders can be broader. Skirts can be fuller. Trousers can sit differently on the body.

That can be one of the best things about it.

Don't automatically assume that a garment needs to fit exactly as a modern equivalent would.

Sometimes the unusual proportion is the reason you love it.

What if it doesn't fit perfectly?

This is where alterations can be useful.

A garment that's slightly too long might be easily shortened. A waist may be adjustable. Buttons can sometimes be moved. A good tailor can often make small changes that transform the way something fits.

But alterations aren't always straightforward, particularly with delicate or historically interesting garments.

Think carefully before making major changes, and if you're unsure, ask a professional.

And remember that oversized is also a fit.

Not everything needs to be altered to sit close to the body.

How we approach sizing at Lourose

We know that buying vintage online can feel like a bit of a gamble, particularly when you're looking at a garment you can't try on.

That's why we try to give you as much useful information as possible.

We might include the labelled size where there is one, but we also provide measurements and describe how we think the garment fits.

If a piece has a particularly unusual fit, proportion or sizing, we'll tell you.

Because the aim isn't to sell you something because the label says it's your size. It's to help you find something you'll actually want to wear.

So next time you find a vintage piece you love, don't be put off by the number on the label.

Get out the tape measure. Look at the proportions. Think about how you want it to fit.

And, most importantly, buy the garment you love - not the size you think you're supposed to be.